Royal Lochnagar is the smallest distillery in Diageo’s extensive portfolio of 29 sites, yet it’s full of intriguing contrasts. Despite its compact size, traditional 19th-century features like two small stills and worm tubs, and a setup seemingly designed for a heavier spirit, the distillery focuses on producing a lighter whisky. This is achieved through several meticulous techniques: a clear wort from a rake and plough mash tun, long fermentation periods, and a slow distillation process that enhances reflux. The stills are aired after distillation to refresh the copper, and the worm tubs are run warm to maximize copper interaction. The resulting spirit carries notes of dry grass, subtle fruit, and a rich mid-palate depth, making it well-suited for aging in ex-Sherry butts.
The distillery’s history is tied to the illicit whisky trade of Upper Deeside in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Early attempts at legal distilling, such as those by James Robertson, faced violent opposition, with his distilleries being burned down. However, by 1845, John Begg successfully established Royal Lochnagar across the river from Crathie, benefiting from a more accepting climate and a strategic ally: Queen Victoria. The royal family had recently acquired the nearby Balmoral Estate, and in 1848, Begg hosted what is considered the first distillery tour for the Queen, Prince Albert, and their children. Impressed, Albert granted the distillery a Royal Warrant, cementing its status and ending any threats from smugglers.
Over the years, Royal Lochnagar’s whisky gained recognition, with Begg’s blend earning a solid reputation before the distillery became part of John Dewar in 1916 and later DCL (now Diageo) in 1925. While much of its production goes into blends like Korea’s top-selling Windsor and Johnnie Walker Blue Label, the distillery has also contributed to single malt offerings. Its range includes a 12-year-old expression, a Moscatel-cask-finished release, and the luxurious Selected Reserve, once Diageo’s priciest whisky.
