Mortlach is known for its highly complex distillation process, which is considered one of the most intricate in Scotland. The distillery’s regime starts with a long fermentation process, resulting in clear wort. The wash is then split across three wash stills, with No. 3 wash still and No. 3 spirit still working in tandem. However, the low wines from wash stills No. 1 and 2 are split into two parts. The first 80% is collected for the charge of spirit still No. 2, while the remaining 20%, called weak feints, is used for spirit still No. 1, known as “The Wee Witchie.” The weak feints are distilled three times, with only the heart of the final run being kept. The overall result is that Mortlach’s new make spirit is distilled 2.81 times, contributing to its distinct character.
The distillation process is done quickly, without air rests for rejuvenating the copper, and all lyne arms are connected to cold worm tubs. This creates a spirit rich in sulphur and a “meaty” character, with additional weight added by the “dud runs” from the Wee Witchie. As a result, Mortlach’s spirit is known for its heavy, robust profile, which pairs particularly well with ex-Sherry casks, making it highly sought after by blenders. However, this weighty spirit has meant that there has historically been little stock available for single malt bottlings, with only occasional independent releases, notably from Gordon & MacPhail, and small batches of a 16-year-old in Diageo’s Flora & Fauna range.
In 2014, Mortlach’s status as a cult malt changed with the launch of a four-strong range: Rare Old, Special Strength (both no-age-statement), 18-year-old, and 25-year-old expressions. The distillery is located in Dufftown, founded in 1823 by James Findlater, Donald Mackintosh, and Alex Gordon. It became the first licensed distillery in Dufftown but was briefly owned by the Grant brothers of Glen Grant fame, who repurposed the equipment for use in Rothes. It was George Cowie and his son Alexander, starting in the 1850s, who revitalized Mortlach and established it as a key player in the blending whisky industry.
While the exact origins of Mortlach’s unique distillation process are unknown, it remains one of the few distilleries to maintain such a commitment to richness and weight, which distinguishes it from other whisky makers. Mortlach was acquired by John Walker & Sons in 1923, and later became part of Diageo through DCL. In 2014, a mirror image of the existing distillery was announced, set to double its total capacity.
