Sulphur in whisky has become a point of interest and occasional controversy, often misunderstood in the context of the whisky-making process. There are two main sources of sulphur in whisky:
1. **Sulphur Candles**: Traditionally, sulphur candles were used in casks to prevent bacterial infections, particularly in Jerez where casks were custom-made for the whisky industry. However, this practice has been outlawed in modern whisky production.
2. **Barley-Produced Sulphur**: Sulphur can also occur naturally during the whisky-making process, especially if there is limited copper interaction with the spirit vapour. While many people view sulphur as a negative attribute, it can actually be a desirable marker that suggests the potential for a whisky to develop a complex, meaty character (e.g., Cragganmore, Mortlach, Benrinnes) or a fragrant profile (e.g., Glenkinchie, Speyburn, AnCnoc, Craigellachie).
Craigellachie is a distillery that embraces this sulphurous nature. The first scent that greets visitors at the distillery is often described as cabbage and beef stock, which emanates from the worm tubs. This distinct character, helped along by the small amount of copper in the worm tubs, adds weight to the mature spirit. Despite its sulphurous qualities, long fermentation at Craigellachie also imparts fruity and tropical floral notes, making the final whisky both full-bodied and aromatic.
This combination of sulphur and fruitiness has made Craigellachie a highly prized malt for blending, contributing significantly to White Horse whisky since the late 19th century. However, it wasn’t until 2014 that it was fully recognized as a front-line single malt.
The distillery itself was established in 1890 by Sir Peter Mackie (of White Horse) and Alexander Edward, a young distillery entrepreneur who was also behind the Benrinnes, Aultmore, Dallas Dhu, and Benromach distilleries. Craigellachie was designed with modern facilities to produce a lighter, fruitier spirit, with early descriptions of the whisky mentioning pineapple as a desirable aroma.
Following Edward’s departure in 1900, Craigellachie remained under White Horse’s ownership, eventually becoming part of DCL (Distillers Company Limited). In 1998, when DCL merged with IDV (International Distillers & Vintners), the Monopolies Board required the sale of several assets, including Craigellachie. The distillery was acquired by Bacardi, which still owns it today.
Craigellachie’s character, with its unique combination of sulphur, fruit, and floral notes, continues to make it an essential part of the whisky landscape, both as a blended whisky component and as a single malt.
